You’d be smart to focus on the namesake grain at Eden Center’s sleek newcomer, Rice Paper.

The expansive menu includes more than a dozen com tam dishes, a South Vietnamese favorite that uses broken rice grains. The most popular, com tam dat biet ($9), layers marinated pork, flash-fried green onions, pickled vegetables, tofu that is stuffed with tangy shrimp paste, sweet sausage and a whole fried egg over its rice base. Needless to say, any leftovers make unrivaled fried rice.

The menu includes a long list of small plates to complement the com tam. Crisp cha gio ($4) stuff rice paper with an earthy paste of crab, pork, mushrooms, carrots and water chestnuts. Dip the rolls into the accompanying garlic-and-chile-infused nuoc cham sauce for additional spice. Chim cut quay ($9.50) sets four honey-lacquered quail on a bed of citrusy greens to brighten the roasted meat.

Opt out of dessert. Instead, Cha Kim Phung Bakery next door sells fluffy pieces of coconut- or vanilla-tinged sponge cake ($1.50) to sweeten the trip home.

Rice Paper, 6775 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church; 703-538-3888 or ricepaper-tasteofvietnam.com