The monuments at midnight are scenic, and couples' massages have their appeal. But for true romance, we turn to table 15 at Al Tiramisu.

It's a table tucked off the main dining room of the dimly lit Dupont Circle trattoria, where jovial chef-owner Luigi Diotaiuti has charmed couples with slow-roasted meat and deep bowls of house-made pasta for the past 16 years.

Start with Prosecco at the brick-lined bar before moving into the intimate, hushed subterranean dining room.

A plump, creamy ball of burrata ($18) from Salento sets a rich tone for appetizers. Honey-sweetened and topped with chopped black truffles as an appetizer, the cheese is pleasant enough to start or end a meal.

Pastas--particularly with heartier sauces--capture the restaurant's prowess with rustic flavor. Fettuccine ($25) is tossed with stocky, comforting veal ragù. Pappardelle tangles with a tender vegetarian ragù of mushroom and onions ($19).

Step aside, wine: This kitchen balances the gentle game flavor of grilled lamb chops ($30) with a prune sauce, letting the subtle fruit complement the meat as well as any Syrah could.

It's a combination that the chef has mastered in his time at this stove.

Al Tiramisu, 2014 P St. NW (at 21st St.); 202-476-4466 or altiramisu.com