Drinking soda for breakfast is usually only acceptable when the coffeemaker is broken.

But the recently opened Founding Farmers in Potomac makes sparkling drinks for any time of day.

The restaurant uses a new cold-filtered carbonation system to add sparkle to its seltzer, forming the liquid building block for its handcrafted Farmacy sodas.

The Manhattan soda ($5) can be easily substituted for a latte. The combination doubles down on the caffeine, combining both Intelligentsia espresso and coffee. Agave syrup softens the acidity and a finishing flurry of freshly whipped cream is a fine stand-in for aerated milk.

For a study in striation, pause to appreciate the New York Egg Cream ($4), with its dark-chocolate syrup base, sorrel-hued milky middle and fluffy, ecru crown of foam.

Scratch sodas ($5) blend seltzer with fresh juices and house-made syrups, including subtly floral, Caribbean-inspired hibiscus, spicy ginger and aromatic vanilla bean.

The expansive new space also creates a daily phosphate soda ($4), which gets a hit of effervescence from phosphoric acid. The slightly tangy add-in draws out the citrus notes in ever-changing daily flavors like blood orange.

These are top pops.

Founding Farmers, 12505 Park Potomac Ave., Potomac, MD; 301-340-8783 or wearefoundingfarmers.com