Another day, another destination for banh mi.

It's difficult to get excited about a newcomer, what with the sheer number of Vietnamese sandwich places in town. But BONMi's approach is both different and noteworthy.

Rather than stick with classic fillings for its sandwiches, the simple shop branches out, puffing its baguettes with stuffings that include three chicken options, pork butt and a new choice for vegetarians.

The restaurant cooks its meats sous vide to preserve tenderness. Pork butt ($6.50) is freckled with black pepper and pungent garlic. Chicken ($6) is available in a five-spice blend, marinated in sweet lemongrass or the signature BONMi preparation, peppery garlic and chile.

In lieu of chile-soaked tofu slabs ($6.25), vegetarians should opt for the butternut squash ($6.25). The cold squash is inspired by Thai curries. It is dipped in creamy ginger-coconut sauce and served, as with all the other sandwiches, with pickled daikon and carrots, cucumber, cilantro and spicy mayonnaise.

The sparse décor is far from charming, and seems designed to welcome franchising opportunities. There's no stopping this sandwich revolution.

BONMi, 900 19th St. NW (entrance on L St.); 202-785-0012 or eatbonmi.com