Despite its airborne name, Blackbyrd Warehouse is all about seafood.

The new restaurant and lounge specializes in shellfish platters, oyster happy hours, and wines that are excellent complements to delicate shellfish.

Whether you're there to listen to local DJs or to splurge on a hulking tier of lobster, shrimp and crab ($76), experiment with some of the unique regions and grape varieties on the white wine list. For those who like diversity, the restaurant serves nearly all options by the glass.

Grüner Veltliner from Darcie Kent ($8) comes not from Austria, but from Monterey, California. The tart citrus and light acidity are easy for sipping, and excellent with the brine of raw cherrystone clams ($1.50).

Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc's Paul Mas ($8) is both dry and pleasantly floral. Best icy cold, it's an excellent match for the restaurant's snow crab legs ($15) or for cool fortification before stepping into the warm evening.

A Spanish blend of Viura and Chardonnay from Las Valles ($8) has the lime and tropical notes to stand up to the restaurant's lobster roll ($16), which tucks mayonnaise-laced chunks of meat into long canopies of Bibb lettuce in a soft roll.

With nearly 30 wines by the glass, we hope it's only a matter of time before Blackbyrd takes a cue from its name and starts offering flights.

Blackbyrd Warehouse, 2005 14th St. NW (at U St.); 202-621-7963 or twitter.com/blackbyrd_dc