Newcomer El Centro D.F. on 14th Street may earn bragging rights for its deep tequila list, but the most unexpected options are on the wine menu, where the three-story taqueria-lounge has sourced a small, unique collection of South American options, all priced at $10 or less per glass.

A rare Sauvignon Gris, the 2009 Cousiño-Macul ($9) from Chile's Maipo region, cools a molcajete--a Mexican mortar and pestle--of serrano-spiked guacamole ($10). The wine's grapefruit notes match the tart lime of the spicy dip.

On weekends, ask if cochinita pibil tacos ($14) are available. If so, order a glass of 2009 Carmenere Reserva Terra Noble ($8). The soft red highlights the subtle sweetness of the citrus- and achiote-pepper-marinated Yucatecan roast pork.

2009 Masi Tupungato Passo Doble ($10), an Argentinean Malbec-Corvina blend, bursts with lingering dried fruit and vanilla, which temper the screaming-hot habanero salsa that diners can add to beef-tongue tacos ($13).

For a breezier way to temper the salsa's spice, retreat to the secluded roof patio, where a special snack menu will debut in the coming weeks.

El Centro D.F., 1819 14th St. NW (at Swann St.); 202-328-3131 or elcentrodf.com