Massimiliano Conti, chef of San Francisco's La Ciccia, keeps the beloved malloreddus (a ridged cavatelli-shaped durum wheat pasta) on the menu year-round, but says that in his native Sardinia, where the recipe originated, it's a staple of the holiday table. "Traditionally, this pasta was made in the late fall and winter, after the annual pig slaughter," says the chef. Conti recalls watching his grandmother, aunt and mother make it together for New Year's Eve dinner. By serving the comforting, pork-rich dish at his own restaurant, he's carrying on the family tradition.