Buffalo & Bergen tastes like childhood.

Named for the Brooklyn intersection where mixologist Gina Chersevani’s mom grew up, the new Union Market soda fountain is the best kind of throwback.

Skirting the sudsy line between creamy and spritzy, the egg cream ($3 for all sodas) blends local milk, soda water and a squirt of thick dark chocolate for froth that stands inches above the top of the glass.

Instead of powering through cups of dense eggnog, try Chersevani’s soda version, which uses all-natural, nutmeg-rich nog from Trickling Springs to create a bubbly take on the holiday classic. The fountain also makes classic sodas using house-made soda syrups, including tart pomegranate, chocolate and spiced apple.

For the appropriate adult twist, Chersevani will soon add a full bar, blending spirits of choice into any soda or float, and mulling warm drinks to serve in vintage Pyrex mugs.

Let the holiday spirits flow.

Buffalo & Bergen, 1309 5th St. NE (at Neal Pl.); buffaloandbergen.com