Yes, meatballs and red sauce go together like bread and butter, chips and dip or eggs and bacon. But such strictness takes a toll on innovation, and Jason Neroni, the chef at Superba Snack Bar in Los Angeles, has removed the meatball from its red sauce rut. Laced with ricotta, red pepper flakes and smoked paprika, the classic spheres take a lighter, spicier form. At Superba, Neroni serves the piquant meatballs alongside salsa verde, but is just as prone to pair them with spoonfuls of grainy mustard. Who said breakups have to be so hard?