Classic Tables: Karyn's Raw

Even the most devout gastronome might feel a twinge of post-gluttony guilt this time of year. (It is resolution season, after all.)

One way to satisfy a desire for healthy dining: Visit Karyn's Raw, the city's oldest raw vegan destination.

Since opening in 1995, Karyn Calabrese has surprised countless meat devotees with the sophisticated flavors and techniques behind her dishes--crafted without animal products (except honey) and without being heated over 116 degrees.

The ideal introduction is at the white-tablecloth restaurant adjoining the café. Start with a nutty, bracingly garlicky ajo blanco soup of almonds, garlic and grapes ($6), or shiitake carpaccio--warm, silky mushroom caps marinated in extra-virgin olive oil and Himalayan salt ($5).

Ravioli--paper-thin turnip slices folded around ricotta-like whipped macadamia milk--are laced with garlic and basil ($14; pictured). A corn-husk tamale holds a savory jumble of organic masa, marinated vegetables and a rich béchamel-like onion-nut cream ($12).

Finish with a dense flaxseed and honey crêpe filled with figs, pecans, orange zest, coconut and mint ($9). You won't miss the butter--or the heat.

But if you do, Calabrese's newest venture--Karyn's on Green, an upscale version of Karyn's Cooked, which cooks with flames (but not butter)--is set to open on January 18 in the West Loop (at 130 S. Green St.).

Karyn's Raw Café and Gourmet Restaurant, 1901 N. Halsted St.; 312-255-1590 or karynsraw.com