We have ample praise for Eggy's, the new diner from the team behind Custom House Tavern.

The space is a smart mix of nostalgia and style. Flavors are bright and gently creative. The downside: It is tucked into a nearly hidden complex just north of Millennium Park, so it is an unlikely destination for anyone outside that corner of downtown.

But the breakfast sandwich ($9.50) is worth the trip. Fiercely sweet-tart pickled onions, crisp shards of glazed bacon and a slather of herb aioli create one of the city’s most satisfying versions.

Cornmeal waffles (pictured; $8.50) stand out too. They arrive deeply browned and satisfyingly dense, filled with fruit compote or paired with fried chicken or maple-glazed pork belly.

Breakfast is offered all day, and Green Eggs and Ham ($9.50) fits nicely on the lunch or dinner table. Eggs are baked in a creamy bed of Anson Mills grits, then layered with house-made tasso ham, avocado, tomatillo salsa and hunks of queso fresco.

The lunch menu is a similar blend of classic (a wedge salad) and new (kale-quinoa salad), and the same is true for Eggy’s family-style dinners. 

Eggy’s, 333 E. Benton Pl., Suite 103; 773-234-3449 or eggysdiner.com