Outside the Salad Box

Bill Kim has made hearty, craveable, affordable Asian his territory. At Urban Belly, he marked his ground with robust soups, dumplings and fried rice topped with glistening Korean short ribs.

At his brand new Belly Shack, he's done it again, this time with a Latin bent. But of all the bold-flavored, cross-cultural dishes served under the El at Western and Milwaukee, two of the most delectable are also the lightest and--in a case of delicious misnomers--called "salads."

But "salad" doesn't do justice to the complexity--and satisfaction--of the dishes.

The cold somen noodle salad ($9, pictured) is a delicious tangle of flavors and textures. Crunch comes from batons of crisp jicama and, in a nod to chilaquiles, tortilla chips enveloped by a tangy, savory tomatillo-fish sauce salsa. The noodles, which hint of lemongrass, are tossed with oranges, olive-oil-poached shrimp and aromatic Thai basil.

The quinoa ssam salad ($7) has the trappings of a classic Korean version. But soy-marinated portobello mushrooms stand in for the meat, and citrusy quinoa salad with apple-fennel kimchi is a stellar replacement for rice.

After piling it into a butter lettuce leaf and hitting it with Korean chili paste, you'll thank Kim for taking creative liberties.

Belly Shack, 1912 N. Western Ave. (at Milwaukee Ave.); 773-252-1414 or bellyshack.com