Thinking Big

As The Publican's beer director, 26-year-old wunderkind Michael McAvena has put together one of the city's most diverse and compelling lists.

To start, he pulled together 500 beers available in Chicago, eventually culling an eclectic group of 70 bottles and drafts.

A highlight is his sizable collection of large-format beers. McAvena calls them "romantic"--as the 750ml beers are often marked by far-from-mainstream techniques (barrel aging, blending), and tend to have great stories behind them.

Get these exemplary bottles at The Publican (prices listed) or at Binny's South Loop.

Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales La Roja ($25) The consummate beer for wine lovers, Michigan-made La Roja spends up to six months in bourbon barrels before the brewers begin blending. The result is an unfiltered and unpasteurized amber ale with notes of caramel, spice and sour fruit.

Brasserie a Vapeur Vapeur Cochonne ($22) Cochonne means "female pig" in French and, appropriately, is McAvena's favorite pairing for pork. The rich, spiced beer comes from a young Belgian brewery that uses vintage steam-powered equipment.

Brasserie Thiriez La Blonde D'Esquelbecq ($28) Thiriez is run by a young brewer known for his healthy disrespect for Northern French beers ("He thought they were crap," McAvena says). In his small French farmhouse, Thiriez combines British and Belgian brewing techniques to make a beer that is malty and hoppy--medium-bodied but still quenching.