LM Le Restaurant was one of the season's quietest openings. Owner Stephan Outrequin Quaisser and chef Bradford Phillips briefly closed Lincoln Square's Tallulah to upgrade the interior, finalize their menu and change the name.

But the differences, from the orange decor to the new French-American menu, are noteworthy--and worth a trip to Lincoln Square.

From the semi-open kitchen, Phillips--formerly of Tru, Blackbird and Saltaus--turns out impressively refined dishes with just the right touch of rusticity (and surprisingly reasonable prices). Two of the best starters are rich and utterly French: a silky torchon of foie gras with deep-purple fig jam and toasted brioche ($18), and sweetbreads with zingara sauce (veal stock, wine and paprika) and a savory caramelized onion raviolo (pictured, $13).

Braised veal cheeks ($22) are tender, rich and hearty; crisp-skinned poussin (young chicken) tops a bed of delectable brown-butter-dressed chanterelles and springy herb gnocchi ($20). A vegetarian dish of buttery crepes folded around house-made ricotta, served over green lentils and Thumbelina carrots ($20), is simple yet inspired.

But the one thing not to miss is the tarte tatin for two ($11). Order it at the start of the meal, and come dessert you're presented with the glistening phyllo-and-apple tart fresh from the oven, in all its caramelized glory.

LM Le Restaurant, 4539 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-942-7585 or lmrestaurant.com