Trial Without Error

We've all been let down by a $10 bottle of wine, and been hesitant to grab that bottle from an unknown Italian D.O.C.

Each month, Craig Perman (pictured) tries to eliminate that hesitation--and memories of subpar low-price wines--with his "six for $60," a handpicked six-pack of wine from far-flung places, which he sells at near-wholesale price.

Perman mixes and matches his favorite values from a month's worth of tastings, with an eye for lesser-known styles and wines with interesting stories. Part of his business is sourcing hard-to-find wines for customers with particular palates--which means he's as versed in the esoteric as he is in the classics.

A new six-pack is released on the last Friday of each month (sign up for Perman's newsletter for details). October's includes a 2007 Domaine Brusset Côtes du Rhône blend, the 2008 Niel Joubert Chenin Blanc from South Africa and the 2004 Vallone Negromaro from the Salice Salentino D.O.C. in Puglia, Italy.

But this month's real gem is the 2007 Quattro Mani "Toh-Kai" from Slovenia. Perman and Spiaggia are the only two places in Chicago to get their hands on the wine, made with young Friulano grapes by much-lauded Slovenian winemaker Ales Kristancic of the winery Movia. And it's only available in the six-pack.

Perman Wine Selections, 802 W. Washington St.; 312-666-4417 or permanwine.com