Don't Miss the Party

Not much escapes the sharp eyes of avid Chicago eaters. Which is why we were surprised by two recent--and excellent--meals at Bonsoirée.

This 26-seat Logan Square BYOB has kept an uncommonly low profile for three years (unlike another 26-seat BYO not far away). It grew out of a supper club, and the tiny but ambitious restaurant still has a bit of that feel: Saturday-night dinners are invitation-only (join the mailing list for details) and Sunday nights are strictly market-driven.

The rest of the time, chef Shin Thompson offers 4-, 7- or 13-course menus ($55, $85 and $150) that change almost weekly. A recent highlight was sweet peekytoe crab paired with pesto and toasty pumpernickel spätzle. An unusual smoked eggplant puree was the star in a dish of braised rabbit with Riesling buerre blanc.

Thompson was raised in Japan, and its influence is scattered across the menu, from the ingredients (like komatsuna, Japanese spinach) to the balanced flavors and artistic presentation of the food.

One of the most delicious nods to his past is Scallop Motoyaki, a Japanese-style scallop served in its shell, topped with ponzu aioli and torched until brown and bubbly (pictured). It's not always on the menu, so heed our advice: Call ahead and request it.

Bonsoirée, 2728 W Armitage Ave.; 773-486-7511 or bon-soiree.com