TASTING TABLE CHICAGO
Enjoy this story from our archive, originally sent to TT members on 9/21/2009.
Endless Summer
Paul Virant stores the season in a mason jar
There are no skeletons in Paul Virant's closet--just mason jars. Nearly 5,000 of them, in fact.
Virant is known for the relentless preserving he does at Vie, his locally driven restaurant in Western Springs. Starting with ramps in the spring and going through celery root and squash in the fall, Virant fills the restaurant's root cellar with the seasons' bounty to help him get through the winter.
In January and February--when local farmers have slim pickings--every Vie menu item has at least one or two reminders of warmer days, including pickled blueberries, pickled fennel or cippolini onion jam. It's a method that allows him to use mostly local ingredients, even during the long Chicago winter.
At a recent canning class at the restaurant, Virant taught attendees how to prepare spicy carrots, raspberries with chocolate and pickled Sun Gold tomatoes (click here to download the recipe). A fall canning class takes place October 5; call Vie for reservations.
Green Grocer sells canning jars and rents a canning kit--which includes a huge pot, can holders and tongs--for $5 per day. And Virant's brine is versatile, so take creative liberties; if Virant's root cellar has proved anything, it's that there's no end to what you can can.
Vie, 4471 Lawn Ave., Western Springs; (708) 246-2082 or vierestaurant.com
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