Buckwheat Benevolence

Takashi Yagihashi has been holding out on us. He teased us with his noodle cookbook last spring, but has kept fresh noodles off his menu--until now.

This past weekend, Yagihashi launched his weekly noodle lunch (Sundays, from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.) at his Bucktown restaurant--and, eager to make up for lost time, he pulled out all the stops. Ramen noodles are made in-house and appear in four soups, including Hokkaido-style miso ramen ($11) and Tokyo-style shoyu ramen ($11) with braised pork belly and a soft-cooked egg. Chewy homemade soba noodles come in hot broth ($11) or cold (pictured, $11), with fresh wasabi, scallions, micro arugula and dashi-sake-soy dipping sauce.

Inspired by a simple summer lunch his mother would make, Yagihashi tops cold somen noodles he imports from Japan ($13) with heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, shrimp, arugula and a sweet-onion vinaigrette. There are also hot and cold udon noodles (imported) and fresh, homemade gyoza--pan-fried pork-scallion dumplings with a tangy chili-soy-vinegar dipping sauce.

In Japan, restaurants that make fresh soba often have the soba maker roll and cut the dough in the front window, so people can appreciate the effort and artistry that goes into their noodles. Yagihashi--who is making all the noodles by himself--is only occasionally visible in his partially open kitchen. But his hard work is easily seen in the bowl.

Takashi, 1952 N. Damen Ave.; 773-772-6170 or takashichicago.com