French Toast 2009

Jerry Suqi calls Jam's malted-custard French toast "the best French toast in the country." Granted, he's the owner, but we'll admit: If it's not the best, this rendition is certainly in the running.

The dish's lineage can be traced to a pint of Ben & Jerry's Chubby Hubby. Chef Jeff Mauro--a Charlie Trotter's, North Pond and Powerhouse alum--loves the combination of malt and ice cream.

So he vacuum-seals Gonella brioche with malt powder-spiked custard and cooks it sous vide. Once fully saturated, the bread is seared to order, and served with kaffir lime whipped cream and cherries stewed with port and pink peppercorns. Though the dish ($10) looks unassuming, it takes a brunch classic to the next level.

And that's exactly what Mauro says he's trying to do at the just-opened Jam, where brunch--and only brunch--is served six days a week. Under his pedigreed touch, a ham, egg and cheese sandwich is reborn as braised pork cheeks, over-easy eggs, ricotta and pickled plums on a homemade biscuit ($10).

Pastry chef Jessica Lane will soon add brioche to her repertoire of English muffins, pastries and scones ($3). And Mauro is working on a menu of higher-price specials that will show off his fine-dining background--and elevate his far-from-humble brunch even higher.

Jam, 937 N. Damen Ave. (near Augusta); 773-489-0302 or jamrestaurant.com