Get Your Goat

They're surly characters, but when goat is properly prepared, you'll marvel at its tenderness. And versatility: It's making an appearance in upscale settings across town, far from the usual ethnic haunts.

Troy Graves, chef at Eve, buys whole goats from Swan Creek Farm and braises the shoulders in an aromatic, wine-bolstered stock. He serves the "goat ragout" as an appetizer, with grilled watermelon, arugula, Laack Brothers 11-year cheddar and black pepper vinaigrette ($13).

At The Bristol, chef Chris Pandel goes for instant gratification with seared goat loin carpaccio, paired with farro, pickled cherries and cashews ($9). Goat liver sausage (recently served with rhubarb mustard, $12) makes an appearance whenever the restaurant gets a whole goat delivered.

At Blackbird, chef Mike Sheerin and company are finalizing a charcuterie trio that will include cured, thinly sliced and crisped goat prosciutto chips, rolled "goat-chetta" (a riff on porchetta) and goat corndogs made from shoulder meat (look for it on the menu later this week).

To do it yourself, try Graves's basic braise recipe (click here to download). You can special-order cuts of goat from Fox & Obel and Green City Market vendor Mint Creek Farm, or get the whole beast from Halsted Packing House.

Eve, 840 N. Wabash Ave. (at Chestnut); 312-266-3383 or evechicago.com

The Bristol, 2152 N. Damen Ave. (at Shakespeare); 773-862-5555 or thebristolchicago.com

Blackbird, 619 W. Randolph St. (at Desplaines); 312-715-0708 or blackbirdrestaurant.com

Halsted Packing House, 445 N. Halsted St. (at Milwaukee); 312-421-5147