Classic Tables: Erwin

When it comes to neighborhood dining, Erwin Drechsler wrote the book.

His eponymous Lakeview restaurant, open since 1994, remains a go-to for market cuisine. Erwin's burger ($13)--seared on a wood-burning grill and served with house-made pickles--was one of the first to fetishize the form. The sautéed calves' liver with sherry vinegar sauce ($19) continues to attract legions of fans--and make converts.

And here's the newest reason to visit his warm, wood-clad dining room: a daily, $18 three-course menu that's arguably the best dining deal in town.

The dishes change regularly; on a recent visit, the first course was a farmers' market gazpacho with sour cream, or a simple pile of mixed greens dressed in mustard vinaigrette.

The main course brought a heaping bowl of couscous flavored with romesco and olives, topped with crisp chicken scallopine and anchovy-mustard vinaigrette.

For dessert, a bit of nostalgia: Organic blood orange soda with a scoop of vanilla ice cream tasted just like a Creamsicle.

But if you're anything like us, a slice of Erwin's pitch-perfect Michigan sour-cherry pie with French vanilla ice cream ($8) will be too hard to resist.

Add it on, and the entire meal will still cost less than your average entrée.

Erwin, 2925 N. Halsted St.; 773-528-7200 or erwincafe.com