Chilapan's chef and owner, Mexico City native Jorge Miranda, says his restaurant is devoted to showcasing Mexican cuisine.

But what makes the small and bright BYOB--which opened this spring--so special are the multicultural nuances of his food.

Budin Azteca, lasagna-like with layers of corn tortillas, braised chicken and cheese, rests in a silky poblano-epazote cream sauce that Miranda calls French-inspired. The fresh garlic-tomatillo-citrus sauce poured over a bubbling mocaljete of guajillo chile-marinated meat, cactus, scallions and cheese, is reminiscent of a Cuban mojo.

The best example--and the pinnacle of the menu's refreshingly bright flavors--is the shrimp ceviche, so called, says Miranda, for lack of a better term.

The dish one-ups the simple citrus-and-chile flavors of standard ceviche. Here, orange and lime are anchored by savory capers, olives and garlic, then blended into a pesto-like mix with spinach and scallion greens.

Instead of "cooking" in citrus, spice-rubbed shrimp gets a quick turn in the pan. It's then chilled and tossed with raw cabbage, radishes, onions and that unusual spinach-citrus pesto (click here to download the recipe).

The result has the freshness of ceviche, with an uncharacteristic depth of flavor--and the makings of an instant summer classic.

Chilapan, 2459 W. Armitage Ave.; 773-697-4597