Go Dodo

Since Ukrainian Village's Dodo closed in 2007, locals have mourned the loss of owner Kim Dalton's daily brunch of seasonal frittatas, French toast and Japanese pancakes.

Dodo-lovers, take heart: Dalton has found a new perch as chef at Fulton Market's Dino's Morgan Inn.

The diner's usual menu is still available during the week. But on weekends, Dalton transforms the spot into Dodo at Dino's.

Head there Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for favorites from the Dodo days: a seasonal strata with goat cheese, spinach, parsley pesto and leeks ($9); a bowl of savory hash--recently chicken sausage with roasted red peppers--topped with a fried egg ($9); over-the-top brioche French toast with fruit and vanilla cream ($8).

But the real perk is her okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake), a Dodo favorite, and a dish rarely found in Chicago. The sautéed medley of eggs, dashi, flour, carrots and cabbage, topped with Worcestershire- and soy-spiked ketchup and Kewpie mayonnaise ($7.50), is just as decadent and hangover-helping as we remember.

Dalton plans to keep Dino's regular weekday menu, though she's added a few salads and some Dodo-era character to the space. And if you visit during the week--and ask nicely--she might make an okonomiyaki or two.

Dodo at Dino's, Dino's Morgan Inn, 954 W. Fulton; 312-226-5300 or dodochicago.com