Truck Stop

Gaztro-Wagon may look like a regular sandwich joint, but make no mistake--these aren't your standard subs.

Matt Maroni, the owner of the shop and soon-to-launch food truck, takes dishes from his restaurant past and reconstructs them in handheld form, wrapped in buttery house-made naan and a swath of foil.

Exhibit A: a naan-wich of wild boar belly ($7), brined with garlic, sage and rosemary and braised until tender. Olives, caramelized fennel and pickled onions make sophisticated (and superb) companions.

Garlicky house-made Italian sausage is paired with tomato-and-onion salad and a savory roasted shallot-herb aioli ($7). Purists might protest the addition of pickles, onions and caper-laden tomato remoulade to a lobster roll ($12), but piled with sweet Maine lobster and topped with micro celery greens, the sandwich is inarguably rich and satisfying.

Once the truck is up and running--in a week or two, hopefully--Maroni will bring his sandwiches to the streets. He'll hit at least three neighborhoods a day, Tuesday through Saturday, from lunchtime until 10 p.m. (he'll post his location on Twitter).

For now, make the trip up to the Edgewater storefront, where you can get naan fresh from the oven, and cooked-to-order sausages. Until the city changes its antiquated food truck laws, these perks make it worth the trip.

Gaztro-Wagon, 5973 N. Clark St.; 773-942-6152 or gaztro-wagon.com