Pink Pride

At its simplest, rosé is crisp, juicy and light--a perfect summer wine.

But depth, bold flavors and heft--words more often associated with reds--can be found in the oeuvre too.

Rosé detractors may adopt anti-pink machismo, or claim that the trend has passed--but these three bottles will change any skeptic's mind about the wine's sophistication, complexity and relevance.

Seek out these bottles, pair them as you would a red wine, and watch the conversions take place.

1998 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Rosado More tawny than pink, this incredibly complex, bone-dry vintage wine backs up the freshness and light fruit of rosé with nutty, lightly oxidized flavors. It's as comfortable with spicy foods as it is with charcuterie and cheese. $22 at Fox & Obel and Binny's

2009 Elizabeth Rose Rosé Bright pink, with big flavor, this organic rosé is made from Syrah grown in Yountville, California. It's crisp and juicy but full-bodied for the style, and it's weighty enough to stand up to steak. $18 at The Noble Grape

2008 Castillo de Jumilla Monastrell Rosado When in doubt, seek out a single-varietal rosé, as flavors tend to be more complex and intense. A perfect example is this 100 percent Monastrell from Spain--it's dry, weighty and smooth, with an intense cherry color and flavor that brings grilled shellfish and spice-rubbed chicken and pork to mind. $13 at The Poison Cup