Supper Steal

Fans of Jam's brunch will be surprised by the ambition--and sophistication--of its recently added dinner menu.

And even the most ardent dining deal hounds will be shocked by the price: $25 for the tasting menu, a parade of four creative, seasonally inspired courses (or $37 for five).

A recent balmy evening on the Ukrainian Village BYOB restaurant's patio began with frothy asparagus soup poured tableside over roasted garlic and citrus purées, crisp prosciutto and curls of shaved raw asparagus.

Next, tortellini stuffed with foie gras and caramelized onions, which chef Jeff Mauro (a North Pond and Charlie Trotter's alum) has mastered. A light English pea purée and a shower of fresh peas over the top temper the pasta's burst of silky, savory richness.

The main event may be perfectly seared marlin with surprising sweet and savory garnishes--like pineapple gnocchi, cubes of fresh pineapple, salty ricotta, basil and candied pecans. Or roasted duck breast with braised red cabbage that invokes the fall, but is light enough to feel appropriate al fresco.

For dessert: strawberry shortcake with roasted strawberries, lime zest and crème fraîche on three petite buckwheat biscuits. And the satisfaction of having a superb dinner for a steal.

Jam, 937 N. Damen Ave.; 773-489-0302 or jamrestaurant.com