In May 2009, GQ's Alan Richman dubbed the mortadella pie at Andersonville's Great Lake the best pizza in America.

One year later, Great Lake remains the same, with 14 seats, one pizza maker, three ever-changing varieties of pizza and always a long wait--first for a seat and next for the artfully crafted pie. But owner Nick Lessins has some changes in the pipeline. Namely, the return of that now-famous mortadella pie for the first time since its coronation.

He's got a batch of mortadella from The Publican, and is working with the chefs to tweak the recipe (he's talking to them about making custom sausage, too). Another development: This summer, instead of outside tables, there will be benches--and thick-crusted, Sicilian to-go slices to eat on them.

The mortadella is due to make a brief appearance in the next month; the Sicilian slices will appear when the weather stabilizes. In the interim, we deem Great Lake's basic tomato pizza--the only menu constant, with a chewy crust, house-made fior di latte mozzarella, sheep's-milk cheese from Wisconsin, and a sprinkle of fresh marjoram and oregano ($21)--reason enough to go right now.

Also worth the wait: A recently featured tarte flambée-like combination of smoky La Quercia bacon, house-made crème fraîche and sweet, just-picked Nichols Farm onions ($24), a flawless New World version of an Old World classic.

Great Lake Pizza, 1477 W. Balmoral Ave.; 773-334-9270