High on Thai

Familiar favorites, as good as ever, at ATK
ATK, Andy's Thai Kitchen
Crispy on choy at ATK

We crave it viscerally and explicitly, like the feeling of sun on bare skin, or a lover's touch.

Dramatic, yes. But we're not the first to feel so impassioned about Andy Aroonrasameruang's crispy on choy.

We first tried the riotous jumble of tempura-fried watercress, mint, scallions, chiles, ground chicken and shrimp at TAC, the Wrigleyville restaurant where Aroonrasameruang worked for nearly a decade. We could eat the sauce, a love child of sweet chile sauce and nuoc cham, every day.

He's brought the dish ($12), along with dozens of other TAC favorites, to his new Lakeview BYOB, Andy's Thai Kitchen (ATK).

There's no "secret menu" here. So make a beeline to the "Don't Miss" section, where you'll find many of the dishes from TAC's second menu, like a fiery dish of crispy basil with minced chicken and preserved duck egg ($9.50), and Thai eggplant with green curry served over wedges of omelet ($10.50). An appetizer of kai tod, dark brown marinated and fried chicken ($8.50), is as sticky and finger-licking as ever. Grilled pork neck with spicy lime ($7.50) is even better than we recalled. 

We never saved room for dessert at TAC. Here, we're glad we did. The pan-fried roti ($3), slick with butter and loaded with sweetened condensed milk and whipped cream, is a laughably rich, staggeringly delicious ending.

Andy's Thai Kitchen, 946 W. Wellington Ave.; 773-549-7821 or andythakitchen.com

Andy's Thai Kitchen (ATK) 946 W. Wellington Ave. Chicago IL 60657 773-549-7821

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