Stereotype-Free Smoke

Your classic big-bellied barbecue master would no doubt raise an eyebrow at the idea of smoking tofu, duck and portabello mushrooms.

But Sweet Charity Smith, the pitmistress of the new Logan Square barbecue joint Brand BBQ Market, doesn't give a hoot what grizzled old-schoolers think.

A Chicago restaurant vet and recent culinary school grad, she brings some fanciness and innovation to the local smoke scene. While her ribs may not bowl over barbecue cognoscenti, her shreds of pulled duck--glistening in its own gorgeous fat, with a whisper of apple and cherrywood smoke--will ($10).

Pork belly may be ubiquitous these days, but rarely does the average hunk come with Brand's crisp, amber, glassy pane of skin. And in a turn for the overindulgent (with delicious results), it's sandwiched in a pillowy pretzel bun with a sweet slick of maple syrup mayo and a drippy fried egg (offered at lunch only, but worth the trip; $7).

If purists still need a standard with which to make comparisons, consider the double-smoked burnt brisket ends, broiled to a crispy, caramelized, almost candylike consistency and tossed on top of mac and cheese. It's definitely an improvement on a classic form.

Brand BBQ Market, 2824 W. Armitage (at Mozart); 773-687-8148 or brandbbqmarket.com