Sprout struggled through its first days last October. The opening chef backed out--then the next chef, then the next.

But in 11 short but dramatic (and much-publicized) November days, chef Dale Levitski revamped, reorganized and reopened the struggling restaurant.

Levitski and Sprout (along with sous chef Sara Nguyen) are finally hitting their stride, with dishes that smoothly juggle comfort, refinement and a hint of excitement. A striking salad composition (pictured, left) pairs lettuce, pears, peppermint and Purple Haze cheese with licorice root, onion and pear purée. The salad is coyly called "Licorice" on the menu, and finished tableside with a dusting of freshly shaved licorice root ($11).

Braised-rabbit-filled virtini (Lithuanian pierogi-like dumplings; pictured, right) mingle with celery root, chamomile broth, beets and hazelnuts, achieving the effect of a homey but mature potpie ($13).

And dessert soars: Beignets with butternut squash purée, curry-vinegar reduction and Black Dog whiskey gelato are sweet-savory wonders ($10). A lemon tart is cleverly reconstructed: Pink peppercorn cookies come with mounds of tart lemon curd, goat cheese mousse, sour cherries and cilantro sauce, to be combined as you please ($10).

Dishes are available a la carte, but the three-course menu ($60) offers a stellar off-menu extra: a composed cheese course in the form of a meltingly delicious sandwich of apple, aged Canadian cheddar, caramelized onions and spiced apricot mustard.

Sprout, 1417 W. Fullerton Ave.; 773-348-0706 or sproutrestaurant.com