Cindy Pawlcyn, the owner of Napa Valley's new Brassica calls her executive chef, Darren McRonald, "the best risotto chef in the United States." We might question such high praise if we hadn't sampled McRonald's leek and pancetta risotto. The dish, which appears seasonally at Brassica, is both creamy and surprisingly light. Plus, the addition of a fried egg on top is a genius touch.