1. Preheat the oven to 200°. Fill a large bowl with water. Add the berries and toss them in the water gently to clean. Drain and dry with paper towels or a dish towel.

2. Hull each strawberry with a sharp paring knife. If the berries are especially small, leave them whole. If not, cut each in half.

3. In a bowl, toss the berries with ¼ cup sugar. The berries should look slightly moist. If not, add more sugar 1 tablespoon at a time until they take on a glossy appearance.

4. Place the berries in a glass baking pan that is small enough that the berries fit snugly. Roast for about 2½ hours, until the berries shrink considerably and become chewy. (The larger the berries, the longer they take to cook; if strawberries are large, add an additional 45 minutes to the cooking time.)

5. Serve as a topping for ice cream or as the filling for a tart or shortcakes.