Coconut milk is an ingredient as versatile as chicken stock. Whether it's sweetened with sugar as the base for sticky rice pudding or stirred into curry for silky texture, it imparts a mild, perfumed flavor and an unparalleled richness. At Aviary, a small-plates restaurant in Portland, Oregon, co-owner and chef Sarah Pliner infuses the multifaceted milk with the flavors of lemongrass, chile and lemon balm before ladling it over fresh tofu, crafting a refreshing soup for even the hottest summer nights.