There's a special place in our hearts for condiments, as evidenced by the jars of jams, spreads and pickles that crowd our refrigerator. So when chef Drew Belline of the just-opened No. 246 in Decatur, Georgia, offered us a recipe for romesco, we were hooked long before we knew it was designed to accompany steak. Romesco is a robust paste of roasted red peppers that has been thickened with nuts and bread. At No. 246, an Italian-imported wood-burning oven blisters the peppers, but home cooks can easily recreate the singed skin in the oven. Make room on the condiment shelf because this sauce is here to stay.