Seaweed butter from Rolf and Daughters in Nashville, TN
Seaweed washes ashore in the breadbasket
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Umami-rich seaweed is popping up in the most unexpected ways. It rims cocktails at Chicago's Yusho (one of Tasting Table's picks for the top cocktails of 2012) and is fried into chips at San Francisco's Saison. But at the new Nashville restaurant Rolf and Daughters, chef Philip Krajeck is whipping momoya, a seaweed-and-dashi paste, into butter. As a child, Krajek traveled to coastal Normandy, where seaweed-flecked beurre and brioche were routine table toppers. Now he brings a taste of Normandy to his Nashville breadbasket. If you can't find momoya, no worries: Krajek shared his recipe for a homemade version that we're happy to break bread over.
Yield: ½ pound seaweed butter, plus extra seaweed paste
5 sheets kombu, rinsed with cold water
2 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons soy sauce
1¼ teaspoons sweet soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2½ teaspoons mirin
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
½ pound high-quality unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, plus more for serving
1 small baguette, thinly sliced on a bias
1 bunch radishes