Vitaly Paley's third restaurant in his Portland, Oregon, lineup, Portland Penny Diner, pays homage to the vendors and lunch wagons that filled that city's streets during the 1800s. The casual diner offers creative classics with a modern bent, including a house-made bologna breakfast sandwich with coffee mayonnaise, and executive chef Ben Bettinger's "Mom's meatloaf," his reinterpretation of the comfort staple. Earthy chile powder, plenty of fresh basil and ground fennel seed give the loaf a modern boost without sacrificing its blue-plate-special roots. Mom would approve.