These duck fat-fried latkes have been served at Delfina in San Francisco every year during Hanukkah since the Italian restaurant opened, a nod to chef-owner Craig Stoll’s Jewish heritage. “Except for frying them in duck fat,” says Stoll, referencing a twist on the recipe that creates a particularly rich, savory and incredibly crisp potato pancake, “these are classic latkes, the ones I crave. My only trick is not to be tricky.”