Each month, Tasting Table’s Monthly Editions explores a single topic from a variety of delicious angles. Our July 2012 issue, Burgers, is patty-packed. From our favorite new burger finds to the ultimate burger recipe, we’re putting the iconic sandwich through its paces.
The burger might be the United States’ most considered dish, with nearly every chef throwing his or her hat into the burger ring. Even so, we never tire of the meat, bun and cheese medley, nor do we stop searching for the tastiest iterations. So to kick off our month of patty celebration, we’ve gathered our favorite burgers of the last year--all from new establishments.
A secret about Los Angeles: Despite the ultra-healthy image of its more lovely-looking denizens, it’s a junk-food town. There are doughnut shops everywhere, and In-N-Out burger is one restaurant nearly everyone loves. The Ida’s Old School burger at the new Short Order--featuring such toppings as iceberg lettuce and a secret sauce--takes the burger chain as its muse, combining it with the farmer-first philosophy of owner Nancy Silverton. Don’t worry: This burger is only a slightly less guilty pleasure.
If you’ve ever tried and failed to get one of the 24 late-night burgers available at Holeman & Finch Public House in Atlanta, don’t despair--just go to New Orleans. Adam Biderman worked at Holeman & Finch for two years, during which time he developed the famed double-decker sensation. When he moved to New Orleans to open his own place, The Company Burger, he brought the recipe with him. Fresh ground Creekstone Farms beef is shaped by hand and topped with Kraft cheese, house-made bread-and-butter pickles and red onions. Don’t you dare ask for substitutions--the only modifications allowed are the addition of bacon and a fried egg.
For those who like math problems, Butcher & Burger poses a good one: How many variations on the burger are available at this Chicago newcomer? The count is high because diners can choose customizations for meat, meat seasoning, bun and toppings. Our favorite move: a classic beef patty (the staff has noteworthy butchering skills) mixed with French onion soup seasoning. The cheeky homage to Campbell’s enriches the meat’s beefy flavor.
The sweet-savory flavors of Japanese cuisine might not seem like an immediate fit for the iconic American burger. Unless, that is, you’re Eric Silverstein, owner of Yumé Burger, a food truck that started rolling around Austin earlier this year. Silverstein spent his formative years in Japan, and the flavors of his youth--including a tangy Japanese barbecue sauce and tempura-fried vegetables--are perched on his patties. Our favorite, the Japajam, features tomato jam, Japanese barbecue sauce, tempura-fried onions and a fried egg.
Photo: Whitney McKim
Market Burger Fries & Shakes, Purcellville, Virginia
This just-opened joint outside of Washington, D.C., doesn’t reinvent the burger wheel; rather, it focuses on executing a stellar version of the classic design. The burgers stand out with custom touches, like some of the best burger pickles we’ve ever had (click here to see the recipe) and a buttery brioche roll in lieu of the classic sesame-seed bun.
SENT JULY 27, 2012
Straight to the Source
Take your burgers to the next level with LoKal beef
The namesake burger ($13) at LoKal Burgers & Beer in Coconut Grove is the stuff of meaty cravings.
A juicy, substantial patty, red onion, Monterey Jack and avocado are stuffed...