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| Thu. 06 May '10 |
| Traveler | NATIONAL |
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Traveling Table: San Francisco
There's so much more than sourdough
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Bruno's Katharine Zacher and Ryan Ostler, veterans of such San Francisco restaurants as Range and Boulevard, pay tribute to the American South with applewood-smoked pork ribs ($16), hush puppies with chile-apple butter ($5) and a knockout Frito pie ($6). Both chefs are trained pastry chefs, so don't miss desserts like whoopie pies ($3) and freshly made churros ($5). 2389 Mission St.; 415-643-5200 or brunossf.com
Contigo In sleepy Noe Valley, chef Brett Emerson cooks an unsung regional Spanish cuisine--that of Catalonia in the country's northeast. He turns out cocas (topped flatbreads; $16) and croquetas (oxtail croquettes; $9), and sources Spanish anchovies ($5) and jamón Iberico ($15). The wine list is a revelation of Spanish vintages from underrepresented regions and producers. 1320 Castro St.; 415-285-0250 or contigosf.com
RN74 This wine bar from longtime Michael Mina wine director Rajat Parr is splashy but far from soulless. It's modeled after a European train station, and an enormous board advertises deals on "last bottles" in stock (the cellar of white and red Burgundies is mind-boggling). The food from winemaker and French Laundry alum Jason Berthold is similarly outstanding. 301 Mission St.; 415-543-7474 or michaelmina.net
Mission Burger A spin-off of the cultish pop-up restaurant Mission Street Food, this makeshift venture operates from behind the meat counter at Duc Loi supermarket. Its namesake ($8) is a sophisticated--but still satisfying--retooling garnished with Monterey Jack cheese, caper aioli and caramelized onions. The fried-chicken sandwich ($8) with pickled jalapeños is equally smart and lusty. 2200 Mission St.; 415-551-1772 or missionburger.com
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